Pérouges

In Episode 21 Lotus and Episode 22 Physician.

Episode 22 The Physician

Perched high on a hill with the French Alps draped as a fairy tale backdrop, the medieval village of Pérouges persists. A timeless town. A perfectly preserved gothic treasure. It’s like walking through the pages of a story from the Middle Ages when chivalrous knights and fair maidens ruled the day. Even today it remains an iconic enclave hiding behind massive fortress walls built of impenetrable stone. Uneven cobblestone streets wind through the narrow alleys, streets, and byways. Today, the town of Pérouges is not only one of the most beautiful, but also one of the best preserved in France.

The arrival through the alley to place Tilleul.

A splashing intro! Pérouges has a mysterious look! Tell still in persuit (from the previous episode Physician) is over his shoulder.

    

   The alley attached to 'place Tilleul' (number 6 on the map, just next to the restaurant).

    

Through misty rays of light, on his temperamental horse, Tell enters the town. The horseshoes sounding over the ancient cobblestone street. Add some exciting sound of the composer S. Syrewicz and the scene is really alive!

                     1986                                                                             2014                                                                                 1986                       

         

1986/1987 Almost everybody left Perouges.                                            2014   

    

1986                                                                                              2014

    

 

Hostellerie du Vieux Perouges

  Riding out of the alley you can see the door is still there. Everything seems the same. 

                                                                                2014 Taken from the other side of the alley.

     

                                     Place du Tilleul                                            Looking into 'rue des Princes'                                    Hostellerie Vieux Perouges                                               

         

The arrival

The well under the 'tree of liberty' is fake.

They are still on the square, there is a shot made of the gate, but this square is not attached to the gate. Just a few alleys away. The gate you see is the upper gate who is the entrance of the village. It's here the soldiers didn't dare to enter the village and Matthew, who is just fetching water, hears why. He hears them talk about the Plague and realizes he and his father are in real danger. 

The gate is number one and the square number 5 and 7, see one row below.

           

     

 

   Place du Tilleul                      

Panorama of the Tilleul Square. At the right the alley with the alley William rides into town (Charnay) and the building on the left, in front of the huge old tree, is the one they enter.

Here is the Hostellerie du Vieux Perouges, one of the oldest inns in France.

    

At the middle of the square: 'The Tree of Liberty' (arbre de la Liberté) planted in 1792, during the French Revolution. Some heavy branches are supported by poles.

    

 

Pérouges has been nominated one of the most beautiful villages of the world and it’s definitely one of the oldest preserved one with no new construction of modern times what so ever. As you walk along the narrow streets where most cars of today would not go through you will find La Place de la Halle (Halle Plaza) where a magnificent tree call the Tree of Liberty was planted in 1800 and still standing.  For this reason this plaza is also called La “La Place du Tilleul” (the linden tree plaza) which is one of the best preserved areas of the village with the old tree a live testimony of an ancient village still standing. Another reminder of the ancient history of Pérouges is the low door entrances inside the houses which is a reminder to us that people where shorter back then.  Many door entrances are no taller than 5 feet.

    

  The terrace of the Vieux restaurant on the main square 'Teuill.'        You can recognize this Crossbow shot through the right two pillars!

    

The same fence they opened about 30 years back is still there, the same table and chairs! Even the same grape plants!

1986 Crossbow shot:  The stem of the grape bush. The old grape plant is still on the exact spot, see below behind Matthew. Still there 2014

        

Pérouges was founded by a Gallic colony returning from Perugia in Italy thus the French name “Pérouges” The Romans built a tower marking up the valley road used by its signal to the defense of Lugdunum. In 1909 Pérouges was threaten by demolition and saved by Anthelme Thibaut who started a campaign against the demolition and saved the middle age village. In 1911 a consolidation and restoration of Pérouges was ordered started by French president Edouard Herriot in order to preserve the village and has continued until today.

         

The unique look of Pérouges has attracted many filmmakers and a few movies have been shot there. The Three Musketeers was one of the several movies that have used Pérouge as a setting for their story. Pérouges has also received pregistous guests such as French artists and writers like Saint-Exupery, Academie Francaise member, René Clerc.

1986                                                                 2014                                                                                      2014      

         

In the middle are two doors. Left is closed and they enters left of the two. The interior nowadays the storage of Hostellerie du Vieux. The exterior: a nice terrace.

1986                                                                             2014

          

I'm not able to take pictures from inside through the windows, it's a private place and the lower window changed a bit, The upper is still the same. It's part of the restaurant and used for storage. Even our beer is ancient! :)

         

 

The Ancient tables!

Compare those pictures. Look at the beautiful ancient tables who are still  there and were also in Crossbow!

A legg of the table under the window (left)         and the table legs between Matthew and William        and again in the middle of the picture in front of the pole

         

            2014                                                                                1986 Both sides                                                        2014

          

INSIDE

Matthew: 'What's the matter? It's just a ruined village...I think we can stay' Tell: 'I don´t know.....something.' Matthew: 'There is nothing, there is nobody here.' Tell: 'I don't like this place' Matthew: There is nobody here...Tell: 'I know....I almost wish there was....

What do you hear?' Matthew: 'Nothing.'

         

Matthew: 'It must have been black knights'  Tell: 'Then why hasn't the village been raided....??? Tell: 'It's not the blackknights.... something else....'  Matthew: 'what should we do?' Tell: 'There is nothing we can do; spend the night here and leave at first light.' Matthew: 'I´ll take first watch.' Tell: 'Thanks.'   

         

    

The alley Tell and Matthew ride into Perouges, and the building they enter in the left.

    

 

     

 

Same location for Physician and Lotus, different angle

1986    Matthew rides (in episode 22 Physisian) from nr. 8 to 4, while Lotus (episode 21) rides from 2, 3 and 4     2014             

        

                                                Lotus 1986                                        Physician 1986            2014 both episodes same house in the back with a slightly different angle

          

 

1986               Around this corner they go.                 2014

               

 

Same bushes as Handmaiden (episode 23, Matthew and Tell are hiding and Horst finds a symbol). They are in front of Fort St. Andre Avignon.

             

To compare:

Episode 23 Handmaiden            Episode Physician 22  In front of Fort St. Andre Avignon                        Episode 23 Handmaiden

         

         

 The plague

La Porte d’en Haut / Upper gate of Pérouges

You can only enter the village through two different entrances, doors that are called “Porte d’en Bas” (bottom door) and “Porte d’en Haut (upper door). Once through either of these ancient gates, you are magically transported to a time where medieval architecture and towering walls enclosed half-timbered facades and paths built of rounded pebbles and stone.

1986                                                                               2014

     

 The gate on the map nr. 1

     

     

                  The old orginial door. Filmed from the inside of the village, like the Crossbow shot.  The exterial of the gate, with the dragon weapon on it.

           

 

In opposite of the inn where Lotus has dinner (ep. 21) and the inn where Matthew finds the drunk doctor (ep.22).

    

         

Now Tell seems so nearby, Horst wants them to search in every village. Also 'Charnay,' the Plague village.

    

The left one wants to follow his orders even if that means riding into the black Plague village, but the other (Ian Brimble) is able to change his mind.

Matthew years them talk and realizes why the village is so quiet. He goes back to warn his father, who is already sick.

Soldier: "Charnay is a plague village! But if you like....you may go."

       

Next time they come back here...they arrest Tell, by following his doctor.

 

The fever

When he goes back Tell has a fever.

         

In search for a doctor

         

The 3 buildings in front of this place. The upper gate in opposite of the inn. The right picture is the building with the door in the middle where Lotus and Matthew put their horse. And they walk around the corner of this building.

        

To compare:

1986  Matthew is riding in front of the right two windows of the buiding. On both pictures you can see the building in the back. 2014

    

                                  2014 the corner                                      Lotus, episode 21                                                                  

               

     

Then he arrives at the door in the middle with the slanted portal.

                                 Physician episode 22                                                          Lotus episode 21     2014 Nothing changed at all! It's like walking on a medieval filmset           

         

 

The inn

No idea where it is..perhaps a room in chateau Chazey, but It could be filmed in Perouges too.

To compare:

                    Physician  22                                                             Lotus 21                                               Is it behind this door? I'm not so sure.

        

    Physician 22                                   Physician 22   Look at the arches and the triangle on the wall in the back!    Lotus 21

         

   First Matthew finds the drunk doctor Oswald.

              

         

The Premonition

While Matthew does everything in his power to search a sober and good doctor. Tell is still in a fever and has a premonition about Katrina. Unfortunately she got killed two episodes later.

These two other people seems poor people who thought that William was almost dead so they could take his bread. But when the young boy sees that William is alive, he looks at his grand mother because he is not sure that what he is doing is honest

Two poor people enter the room...

    

         

   

The Nightmare

         

         

  Perhaps around Perouges? Anne Lonnberg has been in Lavaudieu, short shot in Perouges (in Tell's nightmare) and in Epierre (hometown) Though the plague is partly recorded in chateau of Chazey. That's situated nearby Perouges. So this field scene can be shot around Chazey too. But Anne had no appearance this chateau, but it's nearby. It can be shot over there. It can be everywhere North east of Lyon. I think it's the same field Horst and the soldiers are riding to Chazey castle (also in this episode). They arrive in the gardens of Chazey. So there is a big chance it´s close to Chazey.

Chateau Chazey

Interior

1986 Same room other angle. But the sheets on the wall, I thought were hanging there for Crossbow, are still there and orginial. 2016

    

    

Matthew couldn't find a sober doctor in this town and visits the castle. He had to cross lots of difficulties to see the Lord's doctor, 'the Physician.'

The Physician: "You must be very fond of your father taking so much risk." Matthew: "I am"  Matthew is kind of desperate and he tells him if he doesn't help he will kill him.

         

The physician is in conflict with himself and knows that this is going to be dangerous for him. On the other hand, his noble patient is depending on him and will not just fire him. The doctor visits Tell. The lord is convinced the doctor is visiting William Tell and he let them being followed.

             Left photo interior in Perouges.                                       Right below: interior castle of Chazey.

    

When Matthew leaves the place to get fresh water...there are soldiers that have been following him

           

 

Courtyard Chazey

This courtyard of chateau Chazey was closed so the photo is taken under the huge porch. Chazey is open to the public for only one week in the autumn season.

1986                                                                                        2015    

    

 

The prison

It would be obvious the old part of Chazey or else Perouges.

I don't know... who recognizes these stones? Right the tower of Chazey, this doesn't correspond with the cobbled stone of Perouges. I really think it could be in the old part of Chazey. I will ask the owner soon.

         

   

       The Doctor is stubborn and has his own thoughts. The lord of the castle is scared of Horst who visits him in search of Tell. The doctor is in a quarrel with Horst and the landlord. He wants to be there for every patient. The doctor follows Matthew to Perouges town (and a soldier, who recognizes Matthew, tells Horst about it and follows them). So they know the place they stay. They get caught and locked up, under great protest of the doctor. There is not much he can do. He keeps on visiting them in prison. Doctor: 'It's only a fever, that will be gone in a few days. I have something you might feel better.' He brings along the key!

         

        

Horst on his way and almost arrives at chateau Chazey

         

Soldiers and brothers. Horst and Ian Brimble are riding together as Black Knights. Matthew quickly raised the black flag just before they arrive. 

Lord of the castle: "For some reason the black flag is raised and half the country is in a panic! Oh More problems!" The lord is strongly depending on his doctor but wanted to deliver Tell to Horst soon. The doctor objects and gets in a quarrel with the lord. But the doctors protects his patient strongly and threatens to leave the castle lord. But the lord has already told Horst about it. Then the Doctor is visiting Tell and Matthew in prison and brought the key.

 Too many troubles for the lord and he gets his terrible stomic aches back again and needs his medicine quickly. But the doctor refuses to make it. Then the lord has to choose and overlooks the action of the doctor. Finally his doctor stays and the lord is very happy. The lord is also happy Horst stays away now Tell and Matthew have escaped, because he is terrified of Horst.

            

         

Matthew and Tell got the key. Tell is to ill to walk and gives the key to Matthew.

Matthew wants to save his father as well... he took a black sheet and raises it on top of the castle, just before Horst arrives.

         

Soldier Ian to Horst: They raise the black flag. Horst: 'So what?' Ian: 'It's the 'Plague' flag. It could be around here.' Horst: 'now move!' And they turned around.

                    Shot from the northern garden 1987                                                  2014                    

    

Nice autumn shots of Chateau Chazey!

    

Half the country is in a panic since the black flag is raised. But the lord behold his doctor he needs so much. He has to let go Tell and Matthew. Shots inside the castle of Chazey.

 

Extra photos of Chazey

The castle of Chazey-sur-Ain is an old castle, founded in the twelfth century by the lords of Coligny, rebuilt in the fifteenth century and restored in the nineteenth century, center of the lordship of Chazey, which stands in the town of Chazey- sur-Ain in the department of Ain in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region.

       

The Physician is filmed inside and outside chateau Chazey, I think the robbery in episode Lotus also can be filmed around chateau Chazey.

 

    

         

    

     

 

Extra Photos and information about Perouges (medieval city in episode 21 and 22)

Exploring Perouges

The village now falls between its two medieval gates - the 'high gate' and the 'low gate'. It contains lots of interesting buildings, including a fortified church and the house of the Princes of Savoy (open to the public) with a recreation of a 13th century garden. The attractive cobbled (and uneven - wear sensible shoes!) streets around the village lead past lots of beautiful old stone houses - truly there is something interesting to discover around every corner, with a great deal remaining from its medieval heyday. A tour of Perouges begins at the upper gate. This stone gateway is made of boulders and the wall is part of the church. The church is fortified as are many built at this time. - the 15th century. The church was originally built before but during a siege of the village in 1468 the church was destroyed by the inhabitants of the village in order to repair and improve their remparts. They managed to withstand the attack and one year later started rebuilding the church which was completed in 1479. The authenticity of the village has led to various historical films being made there - most notable perhaps being The Three Musketeers in 1973 (with Michael York).

The local 'Galette'                                                                                                                                                                                  

         

Galette

While “Galette” can refer to savory crêpes as well as free form tarts, these galettes are made from a brioche dough with yeast (and butter and sugar), that’s been completely flattened, baked in an extra hot oven and caramelized on top (with more butter and sugar).  It makes for a wonderful mix of textures – very light, soft and chewy and yet with a crackly sugary top (not as hard as crême brûlée though), thin like a crêpe and with a thicker crust like pizza.  You can order the galette as an individual portion for dessert or an entire one for your table, or even grab a slice to go on the street.  While you get a large tupin of fresh cream and fancy silverware at the restaurant, I have to say… it tastes even better eaten with your hands.  Makes for a more medieval setting too.

         

         

Work and trade at the modern age

Between the end of the 15th century and the end of the 18th century the little town was very active.The were nearly 1500 inhabitants in Pérouges at the end of the 18th century. The speciality was to weave hemp. Benefitting of the passage of the merchants on the road between Lyon and Geneva, and its numerous craftsmen, the city was quite flourishing, despite of some difficult times.

    

 

    

 

    

 

         

 

     

 

    

         

 

    

 

         

Art

    

         

 As you traverse the cobbly streets, be sure to notice the difference in windows and houses. The homes of linen merchants and wine makers were noticeably different in medieval times. It all had to do with functionality since wine-maker’s homes needed lower levels to facilitate storage. Linen-makers wanted natural light streaming through their windows to assist with their delicate weaving so windows were placed higher to catch the sun’s rays.

              

Wonderful ancient small village

    

   Pérouges is a medieval walled town, on a small hill overlooking the Ain River valley 30 kilometres north of Lyon in the Rhone Alps. It developed in the 14th-15th centuries based around the local wine and weaving industries.

         

The main street of Perouges is the 'Rue des Rondes' and this runs in a circle around the centre of the village. At one part there is a narrow strip, by the houses, which is higher than the rest and was reserved for the wealthy residents of the village. Below this is the lower part of the lane which would have been frequently covered in mud and rubbish and was for the poor people! The Rue des Rondes passes the 33 meter deep well and the Maison du Sergent de Justice with its round tower.

         

Also, the low door entrances inside the homes, many no taller than 5 feet, look as if built for petite people. This again is a functionality of time in that during the Middle Ages, most people were shorter than they are today owing to nutritionally-challenged diets, disease, and periodic episodes of starvation.

Atmophere photos taken in 2014 in the hostellerie.

   

With about 100 inhabitants who call the double-walled village home, Pérouges has several restaurants, gift stores and craft artisan shops, wineries, as well as places to stay that cater to the visitor. From handmade paper and fresh bakery items to wine tastings at Caveau de Saint Vincent. When evening falls It's nice and calm, perhaps for some (in this modern times with lots of entertainment) quiet.

         

           

 

A nice review about the city from Eugene

Like a film set of a Medieval village… in fact it is!

I'm giving this town 5 stars because it's perfect. But I give those stars with the caution that I am only giving them because the town is a wonder to behold. I am a former film set designer and I was in awe of the near perfection of every inch of this beautifully restored village. From the moment I saw it perched on the top of it's hill, to rounding the last curved, cobbled alley, I was agog. Once you enter the gates of Perouge, everywhere the eye lands suggests that you have been transported back in time (save a few cars and the tourists themselves). It's truly a marvel. No wonder so many films and television shows have been shot here since the 1920's including 4 versions of the 3 Musketeers.
That said, I have been to other medieval towns in France which offer more in the way of culture, food and activities. None are preserved quite as well as Perouge though (which gets it's name from the city founders who came from Perugia, Italy).  Those looking for lots of activities would probably enjoy this village more during their Baroque and jazz music festivals in the early summer-- or anytime in the summer when the town is likely hopping with tourists and open shops.  But, if you're entertained, as I am, by just the architecture and ambling about in another time, try early November on a cool wintery day when there is no one around but the ghosts. St. George the dragon slayer is alleged to be buried here and is the patron saint of Perouges, thus dragons appear occasionally on crests and flags adding too the feeling that you've just wandered into a medieval theme park set.

Though stuck in time, the location of photogenic Pérouges has easily been recognized through the years as a set for authentic period films such as: “The Three Musketeers” (1961), “Monsieur Vincent” (1947) and “The Advocate” (1993).

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While it is thoughtful, the idea was that the town was originally founded in the early 1100s by a Gallic colony returning from Perugia, Italy in the French name of "Pérouges." By the late 14th and 15th centuries, the town was transformed into an autonomous city and primarily inhabited by craftsmen, wine makers, linen weavers, and farmers. In 1601, the town officially became French, ushering in a period of prosperity for the local craftsmen and merchants on the road between Lyon and Geneva.

            

       By the end of the 18th century, there were nearly 1,500 residents in town and the specialty was now hemp weave. Unfortunately, the booming textile industry came to an abrupt halt by the early 19th century when railroads and roads bypassed the town, resulting in a precipitous population drop to just 90 people  

    

The industrial revolution had taken its toll on Pérouges in the early 1900’s, with most inhabitants having left to find jobs in textile factories close to the train. Only one family lived in the once flourishing medieval town. In 1909, the town was sadly slated for demolition. Stalled only by a courageous mayor and eventually preserved by the French government, the town of Pérouges was eventually restored to its medieval glory. Today, you can still stroll the streets and easily feel transported back in time.

   

The Place du Tilleuls is the centre of Pérouges, with its 200 year old tree of liberty planted soon after the French revolution. Around the square are some beautiful buildings, its a great place to sit and have a beer and watch the world go by. As well as the fabulous buildings look out for the sundial and also take a look in the Saint Georges church at the wooden Saint George on the altar. There is also a small museum to commemorate the weaving industry that was once so important in the village.

Rue des Princes leading into the square was the main merchant street and the houses have wide bay windows where the merchants would display their goods.

                         Uppergate, seen from the village                                  Uppergate from the outside                                     Place du Tuille                                            

           

     The beautiful huge tree of Liberty                                                          The ancient interior of a house in Perouges.

     

Noël

The medieval city of Pérouges has a special charm. It is one of the most touristy places in the department, and for good reason, Pérouges is one of the most beautiful villages in France! This ancient city of weavers is even more beautiful as Christmas approaches. By adorning itself with its finery, the city becomes a place where the magic of Christmas does not operate like anywhere else. The typical architecture of the city is enhanced by garlands of lights and other Christmas decorations. 

The Christmas market, which is held in the heart of the medieval city, is an opportunity to meet exhibitors and artisans who offer all kinds of objects and local products, gift ideas and Christmas decoration. As part of this Christmas market, many events are also held throughout the two days: Visit Santa Claus, torchlight (Sa. at 18h), reading stories, living nativity, etc.  You will find comfort and a little warmth when you enjoy a wine or hot chocolate.

A photo from 2006                                                                 Below: Rue de Princes

    

    

How wonderfull decorated! What a amazing atmophere!

     

         

         

Behind this wall is the inner garden (not in Crossbow)   One of the streets Crossbow made filmshots       The Sqaure of Tilleul, Tell and Matthew arrived

         

    

Église Sainte-Marie-Madeleine de Pérouges

     

Wineries and Bakery

You will find few businesses in Pérouges as well as  two winery and a bakery in Pérouges.  Being located near the region of Beaujolais the wine that you can find in Pérouge will remind you a Beaujolais nouveau. The bread and pastry sold in Pérouge bakery (boulangerie) is cooked the all fasion way with with wood fire.

         

     Spring 2015                                                                                                                                              

         

Perouges and the end of the middle ages

The first written mention about the Pérouges old fortress dates from the begining of the 12th century. From this fortress we have no description, or no date of construction. When the feudal era come to an end, the Anthon lords’ land entered the earldom of Savoy at the 14the century. Privileges charters were given between the 13th and 14th centuries. The inhabitants had many rights that gave them the opportunity to build a city on the site of the castle. The city was built between the end of the 14th century and the begining of the 15th century. At the end of the 15th century the city was attacked by the french soldiers. It was a long siege but the perougiens won. Later:  Between 1790 and 1792, the perougians welcomed by the end of the monarchy and the beginning of the first Republic. The economical difficulties will arrive with the industrial revolution during the 19e century. To find a modern way of life the inhabitants will leave the medieval city, to find a new job on the new textile factories, close to the train. At the beginning of the 20th century, only one family was living in the medieval city. In 1911 the Defence committee is created to save and restore the old town. Edouard Herriot, the mayor of Lyon, will  actively help the committee to refurbish the town.

St. John in Perouges, square de Tilleul                                                          Grapes

    

Pérouges nowadays

Once proudly restored, the old town welcomed a lot of public figures, politics or artists. At the 20th century the old town became a favourite amongst filmdirectors. Some famous people have left their mark in the memories of the inhabitants minds, such as the french actors Yvonne Printemps or Pierre Fresnay , Albert Lebrun (french president), the writer/adventurer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, Maurice Utrillo (famous french painter) or, more recently, Bill Clinton, when he was president of the USA in 1996.  It's favoured by French television which comes to shoot films, in a natural historical location. Thanks to its many protected monuments, the magic happens everytime that actors are working on the medieval city. At the 21th century, Pérouges still amazes still many people.

Perouges on top-destinations

 

Extra stills

Finally some shots we never saw. The quality is not good. It's from behind the scenes. Just shots of Tell on his horse walking through Perouges villages

It's around 1986

     

            

 

         

I recognize this lamp on the corner. It's the building Lotus and Matthew go in          A fellow worker who sets Perouges into the mist and smoke